HISTORY OF COSTUME: this subject that is mandatory for those who want to take the path as a costume designer, must be, in our opinion, also known by those who work in the fashion industry, accompanied by a knowledge of the history of art. This is because today it is not possible to think of an operator without a medium / high cultural background. A deficiency in this sense flattens at the low levels of a blind operation, lacking the necessary ability to control at work. The area of study is developed starting from different historical periods analyzing the vestments, their evolution and the reason why they remain constant in certain historical periods (think of the Egyptians, the Greeks etc ..) and then change. It is a historical cultural analysis that takes us to the roots to better understand the present, its evolutions and involutions. The study then starts from the origins and then becomes more precise in our ‘900. (The necessary bibliography is provided to the students)
Objectives: students must be able to identify the shapes and uses of the dress, its accessories and the materials; the historical period, the social class of reference They must be able to reproduce the various forms of dress for theatrical performances. They must know how to draw from the history of the costume ideas and suggestions to be introduced in modern clothing.
Verification: this occurs through synthetic response questions and brief written reports on the different historical periods.
For what concerns the FASHION PSYCHOLOGY we are looking for an approach aimed at discussing and understanding which individual and socio-cultural reasons underpin the fashion phenomenon, its being and the motivations that push the individual and / or the group to follow the fashions, as well the elements that are found inside and behind the dress. The dress as a sign, as a reference, etc. (the bibliography is provided to the students) Objectives: the students will acquire a knowledge of the factors that underlie fashion to obtain greater analytical skills and propose new ideas. Verification: analysis of the target to which the product is addressed, analysis of the needs of the target audience. Identifying the needs of the target, knowing how to design the right product. Denotation and connotation of the product.
TECHNICAL DRAWING: we mean the design that we need to understand the project that must be realized. It is not the picture that gives the image that you want to communicate outside but the design that serves the model maker for the implementation of the work with the load of technical indications including the indication of the material to be used in production.
Objectives: to be able to draw the different items of clothing in the flat, with clear indications of the details and their position in the figure. Indicate what you need to do it.
Verification: on request, execute the drawing folderso
MODEL MAN-WOMAN: how to take measurements, the difference between the measures for tailoring and those that are part of the size tables for the work in series. Creation of the bases for the different garments, their immediate realization in canvas. Transformation of the bases for the realization of the different garments, putting on canvas of every work. How to prepare a model for mass production.
Objectives: knowing how to execute the model of any item of clothing in all its details with precise indications for cutting. Know how to prepare a cardboard for the industry. Verification: execution of the models on request.
CUTTING: how to place the models and the different parts of a model on the fabric, with reference also to the different types of fabric. How to test a model.
Objectives: learn the placement of models and individual parts on different fabrics with material saving.
Verification: practical tests
PACKAGING: here we teach the different packaging and finishing techniques of a piece of clothing and the differences between sartorial work and that in series.
Objectives: learn how to make a tailored garment, tailored finishes. The verification of the same path in the industrial packaging.
Verification: the students will be able to produce an album of the pack and will have to present garments they packaged.
IDEATION AND DESIGN: what are the methods to design a model and a collection. Objectives: learn how to design a tailored suit with reference to the needs of the client, learn how to design a collection of clothes on a fixed theme
MERCEOLOGY: history of textile fibers, natural, synthetic, mixed, their origin from the raw material to the yarn, their chemical composition, their characteristics. Armatures on which the various fabrics are made. Signs on weaving. The different types of fabrics, their definition and their use. Notes on their maintenance, ironing and stain removal.
Objectives: to learn about the different types of fabric and their use in clothing, to know the accessory materials of the packaging. Verification: practical tests for the recognition of fabrics, albums with textiles of the fabrics
HAND EMBROIDERY: this is a separate work where the basic points are taught, and the different types of embroidery are taught. This work area is tense:
a) preserve the memory of ancient work techniques
to allow the restoration work of antique pieces
c) intervene in the production of period costumes d) allow the identification of some interventions in clothing and modern linen.
Objectives: learn the basic points of embroidery by hand, learn to recognize the various types of embroidery Check: produce an album with the execution of the different points
MODISTERIA: The profession of millinery is taught with reference to the tradition, culture and techniques of Italian Modisteria.
– Shaping of felts and sisal
– Use of forms, construction of forms
– Obtaining materials for making hats
– Measures necessary to make the hats
– Hat design
– Construction of the various types of hats
– Internal structures of the hats and their construction
– How to finish the hats and how to decorate them, stitches of sewing and embroidery by hand
– Making hairstyles
– History of the hat (the school provides documentation)
– How to choose the hat, the shapes of the face, the colors of the hair and the complexion.
During the course a lot of practical work is foreseen to learn the trade.
The intervention can be hypothesized for a completeness of the training process:
a) Computer expert to analyze the applications of these technologies in the specific field, both for what concerns the modeling, and for what concerns the creative area of the design:
b) Marketing and communication expert (training seminars)
c) Industries could give their availability by sending experts from the various operating sectors to specific seminars.
The one presented by us is the whole subject area, it is clear that it is possible to organize specific courses linked to one or more topics according to the training and / or retraining objectives that one wants to achieve. The problem is also linked to the cultural level of those who attend, in our school for example are all students from the University and the Academy of Fine Arts, this does not exclude students who have a lower cultural education. It is certain that in the latter case, however, we must also stimulate cultural growth and adapt the educational path. As for the formation of figures as it can be: tailor tailor, costume designer, pattern maker, stylist etc. starting from the aforementioned thematic area the specific didactic path will be organized.