Historical Collection: dresses, lace, accessories
Propriety: Eolo Helder Fontanesi, owner of Atelier Il Bagatto
Prof.ssa Norma Tassoni Fontanesi
The collection we intend to present is made up of feminine clothes, intimate lingerie, lace, lace and accessories: all these materials, collected over twenty years, cover a period from the end of the 18th century (a cream silk satin dress) with floral embroidery, accompanied by a hat and spencer in green silk velvet, silk satin shoes) from the 40s / 50s. Some examples of 70s dresses were also included in the collection. beginning we were limited by the rarity of available materials, while the ’40s /’ 50s were decided as a conclusive period not only because the research field is otherwise exterminated, but also because in our opinion these are the last years of our ‘900 who have given and said something new with regard to the dress form. After this period we witness other phenomena, serialization of fashion, the birth of prèt a portèr, the end of haute couture as a research laboratory of exclusive forms, a translation of this into a sort of industrialization of luxury, etc., with all the problems connected to these new dynamics change if we want the same “philosophy” of the dress with the affirmation of so-called mass societies. What we find again is in the research of the textile industry more than in the dress form., It is in the uses, in fashion fashion, etc. However we stop here not being the place for a discussion on these issues.
We have dealt with this research work:
1. to see how the dress changes and how to dress
2. testify to the different processing and cutting techniques
3. see the various materials that are used
4. testify how much there is art in the dress, in the lace, in the finishes etc ..
In detail, the collection consists of:
DRESSES: the earliest is from the end of the 18th century, we cross the early ‘800 with some walking clothes to go to a series of corsets for day and evening of the second half of the nineteenth century. A beautiful dress in black silk tulle with jet embroidery and floral patterned sequins closes the Bella Epoque. The beginning of the 20th century is witnessed by two wedding dresses and everything goes on with day and evening dresses. (about 1000 pieces).
BIANCHERIE: there are knickers, underpants, petticoats, copits, nightgowns and dressing gowns (about 40 pieces)
ACCESSORIES: umbrellas from the nineteenth and early twentieth century, evening and day handbags. Kid gloves, filet etc., ostrich boas, fans etc. (about 30 pieces)
PIZZI-MERLETTI: bobbin materials, Aemilia Ars works, Renaissance trellis, centers, borders, carvings, bedspreads, tablecloths, two hand-woven hemp cloth twins etc. (about 250 pieces)
FINISHINGS: necks, juliet finishes from 800 to 1900, buckles, buttons from the 19th century to the ’60s, three spools of silver thread, feathers (about 200 pieces)
COLLECTION OF HATS: from the ‘900 to the’ 50s (about 80 pieces)
BIJOUX: necklaces and brooches, pins and conterie various from the 800 to the ’50s (about 100 pieces)
FABRICS. : in the collection we have included some examples of fabrics from the 40s and 50s
NEWSPAPERS AND MAGAZINES: there are fashion magazines from the 19th to the 970s, a collection of embroidery journals from the 1900s to the 1930s
The number of pieces that make up the collection is indicative because, as research is still ongoing, quantities change in relation to the procurement of new materials.
All the pieces are collected according to the characteristics that we listed at the beginning, they are not therefore linked to the notoriety of the characters who owned them and / or to the obligatory intrinsic preciousness of the materials being precious as a historical testimony
Since the clothing is a window that allows us to enter the historical period to which it refers with the possible reading of what of that period most interesting, for the quality and the particularity of the collected materials we believe that, depending on the reading key that you want to adopt, this collection lends itself to the possibility of differently articulated exhibitions both for topics and objectives that you want to achieve. Then entering into the specificity of the individual materials we are able to also deduce how much of applied art is found in them. Let’s say that beyond the frivolous and futile in the transience of the forms of fashion, the pieces preserved here in law are inscribed not only in the need to stop a historical memory, but in making a cultural journey that looks to the roots to go further.
The collection, as well as being used as teaching material in the courses held in our Atelier (the Bagatto), was used for lessons at the Istituto Carlo Secoli in Bologna, it was used for lessons with students from several private fashion schools .
With part of this materials the following exhibitions were made:
• from 6 to 26 May 1985, MOSTRA DI PIZZI E MERLETTI, at the Atelier Il Bagatto via Mascarella 45/c Bologna
• 25 April 1986 ,MODA A CONFRONTO, at il Circolo della Stampa via galliera 8,Bo, defilet
• 22 November 1986, HAPPENING for Services of Lions Club Lydia Borelli,Teatro dell’Abbazia di SS Salvatore., Quadri Viventi
• 26 April 1987 Hotel Hilton Roma, show defilet
• 29 August, 8 September 1987, Salone Moresco, albergo delle terme di Salsomaggiore Pr: show defilet
• 12 January 1988, MODA TEMPO LAVORO,Grand Hotel Central Park,LIoret De Mar, Barcellona ,Sp. show defilet
• 11-12-13 June 1988, at Istituto Florentia, Modena, vintage dress show “700 il Riflor”
• 29/30 April 1990 , XIII MOSTRA Artigianato e Commercio di Soragna, Pr., Moda in passerella., defilet in front of Castello di Soragna.
• 5 May/2 June 1991, Comune di Marano sul Panaro, Modena , “l’Arte come lavoro” a cura del TNE Moline, Mostra
• 8 September 1991, Di Cappello in Parrucca, Mostra at l’Italo Francese di Bo.
• 2 June 1997 Mostra, “Il Filo del Tempo”, at Atelier Il Bagatto, Bo.
• 24 November 2001, Mostra Materiali, at Atelier Il Bagatto, Bo.
• September 2003, Walks of memory, ‘800- ‘940, at Festival Nazionale dell’Unità di Bologna.
• 10 October 2003- 30 january 2004, L’intimo dal ‘800 al ‘900, at Atelier Il Bagatto, Bo., inside the show there were also an exposition of jewelry from the handymade laboratory UDIRELEFORME, Bologna.